How to Spend a Holiday Weekend

It's Labor Day weekend, and I'm not at the Midwest Old Thresher's Reunion in Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. (That's kind of a big deal.)

I haven't missed an OT since 1999. It's where our family has spent this holiday for 15 straight years. It's the longest-standing tradition our little group of five has. We've attended (and camped, many years!) through cold, heat, torrential rains, and knee-deep mud. We've been to OT in learn years, and prosperous years. Through Democrat and Republican presidents. Through sickness. Through three pregnancies. Through babies and toddlers, and even the early part of the teens years.

To say that this historic reunion means a lot to us is an understatement. But, God means even more, which is why we were in Xela, Guatemala on this fine day, instead of in Mt. Pleasant, Iowa.

BUT - we weren't about to miss out on a bit of fun over the Labor Day weekend - even if it wasn't our usual fun, and even Labor Day is not even a holiday here. So, we did the next best thing to looking at antique tractors and eating food on a stick - we visited a ramshackle, lovely Guatemalan farm and picked berries, and then headed off up the mountain to the hot springs.

It was lovely.

The farm belongs to the family of one of my students. From the outside, all you can see is a ten-foot wall with a metal gate, with a few tangled berry bushes draping over the top. But, once you drove inside the gate, it was like a forgotten paradise. The family hasn't used the farm much for the past decade or so, but the remnants of its former glory are still evident in every turn and corner.

The property had a small house up front, and another one of about the same size (for the guard/caretaker) further in. There were chicken houses and a few other outbuildings, an abandoned little swimming pool, and lovely, half-hidden paths that meandered through the property. But, my favorite part - the part that took my breath away - were the plants. A few big oak and pine trees. Flowers I've never seen. (Never even dreamed of!), as well as stunning examples of some of my favorite blossoms. Endless rows of berry bushes taller than my head with the biggest blackberries I've ever seen. Apple trees. Peach trees. Fig trees. Other trees with fruits I've never even heard of.

The plant behind Rebecca (which was the same height as she is) was a poinsettia.

The roses - though they'd been left unattended for years - were stunning.

Happy berry pickers in front of enormous berry bushes!

What a haul! :)

 We spent a very happy two hours there, and sincerely hope to have the chance to go back again sometime.

After our agricultural adventure, we hopped into the Jeep, stopped off for a quick bite to eat (McDonalds - what can I say?) and then wound our way up the steep mountain road toward Fuentes Georginas - the hot springs. The drive is truly breathtaking - sometimes literally, as everyone in the car held their breath while we passed an oncoming vehicle while trying not to drive off the sheer dropoff just beyond our windows. The views were stunning, until we got high enough that we were above the clouds, and were enveloped in a dense, moist fog.

It was lovely.

We were similarly spoiled while at the hot springs - enjoying the chance to soak in natural, volcanically-heated spring water, even as the clouds rolled in around us, and a cool, light rain began to fall. There was something transcendent about the experience. It was, truly, like a little slice of paradise that we were getting to experience together - almost unbelievable in just how perfect it all was.

It's so beautiful here!

Believe it or not, there are Farriers in this picture. They're just hard to see!

Farriers in the Mist

Unbelievably beautiful place

Words (and pictures) just can't do it justice.

After a good, long soak, we dried off, changed clothes, and headed back down the mountain - enjoying the view even more since we got to drive on the inside of the road, and NOT closest to the edge! :)

You could see for miles (most of it straight down!) :)

I can't say that it was the same as Old Threshers - or even as good, since we didn't get to be with our family and friends - but today certainly was a blessing, and might just have been the start to a different tradition that we'll treasure for years to come as well.

Five Impressions

I have been here now for 4 weeks - living in a different country, trying to find my way in what God has called me for.  After this amount of time I wanted to share five things. Some still amaze me, and some I find interesting.

• People and Friendliness – Luckily I grew up in a church that was very huggy.  You would not get to your seat on Sunday morning without getting a lot of hugs.  Since leaving there, though, I have become a person who likes my personal space. (Not with my kids and wife, just normally with other people.)  That idea goes right out the window here.  Here handshakes are normal for men, until you get to know each other. Then hugs, mostly side hugs, are considered good.  Women, for the most part, greet with a kiss on the cheek. They greet both men and women this way.  You can imagine my joy when, on the first day of classes, all the boys kissed Rachel on the cheek.  I am getting used to this, but it still makes for awkward moments.

•  Language Barrier – I knew Spanish would be hard.  But, I didn’t understand the paralyzing fear that is created when you cannot speak to people.  At least people are friendly here. And, though they laugh at you, they do not make fun of you.  I know without a shadow of a doubt that I would not have lasted this long without Andrea.  At this point I am on my 3^rd week of Spanish tutoring with a great Christian man named Guillermo, and I have gone to McDonalds by myself and ordered food.  The worry of a language barrier is so great that I lock myself away unless I absolutely have to do something.  Thank God for Andrea. She is my angel.

•  Cold Water – I think this is a challenge everyone can try at home.  Only use cold water all day, for one day.  For everything but showers.  Dishes by hand, laundry, washing hands. (Oh, and make sure you don’t touch your face before drying your hands. You don’t want to get sick).  Now, to replicate a shower, turn your shower pressure down so it is about a quarter of what you normally use.  Get the water to where the chill is just out of it.  That is the average temperature. Occasionally warm it up so it is comfortable, not hot, then turn it to cold about thirty seconds later. This replicates the suicide shower head turning off.  Repeat.

•  Noise – You ever have a couple kids playing outside till midnight keeping you awake? Do you go out and tell them to be quiet? Call the police?  Here, you never call the police unless you absolutely have to. They almost always make things worse.  No one cares about noise, so good luck getting them to be quieter - especially if their drunken parents are enjoying their soccer game.  This is somewhat liberating though. When our kids are running through the apartment making noise, who really cares?

•  Hard workers – Ever wonder why all of those Guatemalans are risking their lives to get to the United States?  Why they’re sending their underage children, with a high risk of death, rape, and mutilation? It is because of the poverty.  There are no jobs.  Now before we talk about no jobs in the United States, I want to let you know that before I left I went to Omaha. There, I saw at least twelve help wanted signs out at businesses.  Yes, they were restaurants and places like that, but they were jobs.  There are no jobs here. None.  And, when one does come up, it is gone very quickly.    No questions of health insurance, minimum wage, vacation, or sick time.  Just, “I will take it.” Also, there is also no government assistance. You don’t work, you don’t have money.   So, for the most part, people work very hard here.  They stand in the market and sun all day, hoping to make enough to make dinner that night.  The idea of retirement or savings is kind of silly, really.  Being an American, I do often wonder, would I work that hard for so little money?  If I knew that was my life here, would I send my kids on a risky trip to the United States, even though I love them and my country? Would I stop looking for work and drink my worries away, looking for easy targets to steal from? These are the kind of things I wonder about as I drive through the streets.

These are a few of my impressions now that I have been here awhile.  If you would like to hear about anything else, leave a message in the comment section or on my Face

Impressions After Three Weeks

It may not seem like much,
but it's home - and filled with
a thousand little blessings and
opportunities each day.

It's been just over three weeks since we arrived in Xela. Hard to believe, huh? It's also been almost 6 weeks since we left Iowa. (Harder still to believe!)

I find myself frequently awe-struck by the beauty of this place, the mystery of a million little differences between here and home, and the wonder of the fact that God allowed US to do this.

Seriously - at least a few times a week I can't help but comment, "Hey, Farriers - we are living in GUATEMALA!"

I hope that never wears off. (The language barrier, though- that can wear off. Aaaaaany time now. For real.)

Mark and I were talking with Rachel yesterday (as we walked miles back to our house after a malfunctioning electronic key fob hampered us from being able to get into our Jeep... it's a long story), and we came to the realization that so many of the things that were/seemed really hard to begin with have become total non-issues now.

Not being able to flush your toilet paper. No papertowels in any bathrooms. Remembering not to rinse your toothbrush under the faucet. Having to wash all the veggies with elaborate, scientific precision. The suicide shower head. The horrible roads. The constant dirt and dust. All of these things are now completely insignificant -to the point that we really don't even think about them anymore. They're just a part of our dailys lives.

In fact, instead of noticing and focusing on the negatives and challenges (of which there are many - don't get me wrong), we're actually at a place where we're discovering a whole wealth of new, tiny wonders and delights each and every day.

Payphones on every corner, which people still use...

The way they wipe the dust off the 5 gallon water bottle before they pass it across the counter at the little tiendas...

That a hug and a kiss on the cheek are the standard greeting...

Haircuts for men aren't complete until the barber has shaved the stray hairs on your neck with a straightrazor...

That the employees at McDonalds open the door for you, carry your food to your table, and gladly take your tray when you're done...

The girl in the market who carries around a scale and will tell you your weight for 1Q (and the fact that paying 5Q [around $0.40] for our whole family to get weighed costs us practically nothing, but gives her enough to buy something to eat that day) ..

The window washers who so tirelessly (and perilously) wash windows at stoplights in hope of earning a couple Qs...

The beauty of the people...

The beauty of this place...

The beauty of being allowed to be a part of it all.

Honestly, I don't know what else to say except that God's been so very, very good us, and we are humbled and privileged to be here, and excited to see what new wonders, blessings, and opportunities He sends our way in the days, weeks, and months to come.

Shopping in Xela

So... shopping.

It's kind of a strange subject for me. I used to adore grocery shopping, but abhor clothing shopping. (Maybe there is a connection between those two. Hmm...)

Anyway - here in Xela, I still generally feel the same way, only everything is infinitely more complicated.  Why? Because nothing in Xela is easy - includuing shopping. Allow me to explain.

Shopping for Food: 
You can go to the market. Actually, one of several markets. These are total assaults on the senses, but also super fun, and the best place in the world to find fresh everything at a really good price. (I've seen foods there I've never seen before.)

If you're not looking for a physical and emotional workout, though, you can always go to a dispensa, or Walmart, which are more expensive, but more familiar.

Note - Walmart here is kind of the big, fancy, expensive store, because it's a brand name. (I know - strange, right??) Maxi Dispensas (of which there are several in town) is owned by Walmart, and sells almost exactly the same stuff as Walmart, but it's a little cheaper. Then, of course, there are the privately owned dispensas, which are smaller and cheaper still.

We usually buy our fresh things at the market, and our meat and packaged food at Maxi-Dispensa, and our bread (fresh - not sandwich) at the panaderia (small, family-owend bake stand) right ouside the gate to our apartment.

Shopping for Household Goods:
(For our purposes, I'm mostly talking about toilet paper, paper towels, dishes, small appliances, etc.) Again - most of these can be found at the market, but you can never be 100% sure, and you're going to have to work to find them, all while being solicited every 10 steps, carefully guarding your pockets and backpack, and being sure not to step off a rough step or trip over a cobblestone.

Walmart, Maxi-Dispensa, and the smaller dispensas are good choices for these things. But, there are alternatives.

What alternatives??  (I'm glad you asked.)

The places that most people shop for general household goods are small neighborhood tiendas. They are EVERYWHERE. Like, in the 3/4 of a mile it takes us to get to the end of our street, we pass by at least 4 or 5 tiendas, and we're in a very residential area. Elsewhere, they are literally every 2nd or 3rd building. Each one carries toilet paper, little bags of chips, soap, and so on. You can also exchange your empty 5 gallon water jug for a full one at most tiendas.  I don't know how people choose which tienda to go to, or if there's a very big price difference among them all. So far we've purchased some T.P and had good luck getting our water at Tienda Yumely. (16Q and a smile!)

Shopping for Clothing:
This is where things get trickier. Walmart and Maxi-Dispensa do carry clothes, and the prices aren't horrible. (You can buy dress shirts on sale for $5 for, example.) But, the quality, selection, and fit kind of are.

We do have a mall, which does have name-brand clothing stores, though I haven't been to any of them. I believe that they're even more expensive here than they were in the States, and I have a hard time paying for a label.

Most people choose to buy 2nd hand clothing that comes from the states in big bales or packs - known as pacas (say: pa cause - emphasis on the 'pa'). Some stalls in the markets are set up by people who spend their hard-won money to buy a single paca, and sell the items for 5 to 8 Q each (that's $0.75 to around $1). There are larger paca places in the market, and dozens and dozens of little, ma-and-pa paca stores set up around town.

And then there's the mega paca...

It's a huge building with rows upon rows of used American clothing and shoes. Much like my beloved Goodwills in the U.S.A., clothing is assigned a tag color and a price when it arrives. At MegaPaca, the clothing is put on the racks by tag color. At the end of every week, they rotate which color is on the deepest discount. (When I say deep, I mean deep. Discounts run from 10% to 90%!). It is very possible to find clothing items for under $1, but you're going to work for it. Remember - these are the clothes that:

• Americans have purchased and worn
• Donated to their 2nd hand stores
• Were picked over by 2nd hand shoppers (and rejected)
• And then sent to Guatemala.  

Some things are in decent shape... most are not. Shoes, especially, are very expensive here. I found it to be nearly impossible to find a pair of shoes for the girls under $10, and they were pretty worn out. On the plus side, Mark did find a niiiiiiice pair of python Tony Lamas boots for around $20. We do have a Payless Shoe Source, but shoes are even more expensive there - usually $25 to $30.

Shopping for School Supplies
One last shopping adventure we've recently had has been shopping for school supplies. I've got to be honest - it's a little surreal. Again - Walmart and Maxi-Dispensa were our go-to places where we found most things we needed. (Notebooks, glue sticks, crayons, colored pencils, etc.) The selection is extremely limited (one type of markers... two types of glue) and things are more expensive. Oh, and, they only sell pens one at a time. No 20 packs of Bic blues here!

What couldn't be found at those places had to be hunted for (with our very limited Spanish!!) at the many, many local little papelerias or librarias (corner paper and book stores).  Some are relatively big, and well stocked (like Papeleria Evangelica). Others (like the two or three on our street) are much smaller, and sell strange things - like paper by the sheet, used binders, etc.

Eventually, after MUCH hunting and expense, we did finish buying all of the girls' school supplies, except for one thing - folders with pockets.  I don't think there's a single place in town to buy those!

And on that note (and since it's Saturday, and we're all out of food and dangerously low on toilet paper) it's time for the Farriers to once again head out into the wild jungles of the Demo market. Wish us luck. We'll need it! After all - nothing is easy in Xela, especially shopping! :)

Missionary Life - 10 Days In

Wow. We've been here ten days. That sounds like so few, and kinda feels like so many.

It's funny how relatively settled we feel, yet how completely disoriented we are at the same time. I mean, we know how to drive everywhere we need to drive to. (And by 'we', I mean Mark.) We've figured out how to shop, cook, do laundry, shower, and check email. (You know - the important things...)

It's the little things
- like having a Coke with Jesus -
that make this transition easier.

But, even while we're doing all those things, we're also usually mostly mystified and confused.

Like how I'm just a wee bit terrified every time I have to face down the suicide shower head.

And how I end up just fumbling with bills and coins and gesturing hopefully when I go to the market.

Or how we've been to McDonalds so many times that one of the guys who works there brought our capuccino and commented with a smile that we were at our 'reserved table.' <sigh>

(At least, I'm pretty sure that's what he said, but I'm not 100% sure. <sigh again>)

I think that the hardest part is just feeling so off-kilter all the time. Because we haven't really found our equilibrium, it's easy for little things to make a big difference. That means that a challenging experience (wherein we stand around looking like the most enormous, awkward gringos ever) can be enough to practically reduce us to tears and start thinking about which family members we can mooch off of if we decide to head back to the warm, familiar embrace of the U.S. of A.

Of course, the oppositive is also true. (Thankfully!) Because we feel like such newbies and outsiders, even the smallest of kindnesses - like a friendly smile or an invitation out to dinner - are enough to make our confidence soar and cause us to fall in love with Xela and its beautiful people even more than ever before.

I'm hoping that, the longer we're here, the wider our comfort zone will become, until we're able to really feel like we've found enough space to find balance. Until then, I guess we'll pray that the thousands of little kindnesses we've found since living here will continue to come our way. ('Cause I'm pretty sure we're not going to stop being enormous, awkward gringos anytime soon...)

Greetings from Xela

Well, we finally made it to our new home, sweet home - Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. Or, Xela, as it is known locally.

Before you give up reading the rest of this blog becase of the strange words, allow me to help you with pronunciation. Quetzaltenango sounds like KATE - SAUL - TEN - ON -GO. Xela is pronounced SHAY - LA.

See - that was easy! In fact, even though it's almost entirely different from any place I've ever been in the United States, Xela really is pretty easy to get to know, all in all. (That being said - I still have yet to actually drive here. For now I'm leaving that up to my intrepid husband.)

Here's a little basic information to help you get to know our new home town a little bit better:

• Xela and its surrounding little communities have around 400,000 people, 852,498 speed bumps, and approximately 1.73 billion dogs (give or take). 
• To answer a question we're often asked - yes, people in Quetzaltenango do drive on the right. Or the left. Or down the middle of the road - whichever suits their fancies and needs at any particular moment. Road signs (though present - unless they were stolen for their metal) are put up excusively to be ignored. 
• Water in Xela is readily available in most homes at the turn of the tap. Giardia, amoebas, cholera, and other water-borne diseases are likewise readily available at the turn of the tap. This can lead new residents to ask themselves interesting questions like, "did I just accidentally put my toothbrush under the running water?" and, "are the dishes I just washed in the sink actually cleaner, or dirtier, than they were before?"
• The currency in Guatemala is called the Quetzal (KATE - SAUL), and there are currently 7.7 Quetzales per dollar. Typically, it's easiest to round it up to 8 when trying to figure the American price equivalent of an item for sale. (Easiest, that is, if you're really good with your 8's in the multiplication table. Otherwise, it's a bit of a challenge.) 
• The elevation in Xela is 7,800 feet. Or, 7,000 feet, if you've just come down one of the hills. (Seriously - they feel that steep.) Or, 25,000 feet if you're trying to climb steps, carry something heavy, take a deep breath, or otherwise exert yourself.
• If you're planning a trip to Quetzaltenango and happen to forget your alarm clock, don't worry. You're almost guaranteed to be awakened by the 4:45  diesel truck brigade headed to Guatemala City, the 5:20 daily rooster crowing competition, the 5:45 Toyota pickup driver who is super proud of his sound system, or the 6:00 firecrackers. (The latter are set off in honor of people's birthdays. It's been someone's birthday in our neighborhood every day since we arrived.)
• The weather in Xela is perfect. The daytime highs are generally in the low 70's. Nighttime temperatures usually are in the lower 50's. During the rainy season, it rains every day. Except when it doesn't, like every day since we've been here. During the dry season, it never rains. Except when it does.
• The people in Quetzaltenango are extremely friendly, and always ready to have a conversation. This can be a bit disconcerting for newcomers who might be willing (but not necessarily able) to understand the sudden onslaught of Spanish. No worries, though - the locals are extremely patient and kind in such instances, and hand gestures and smiles go a long way in communicating basic needs. (I don't recommend trying to debate the nuances of Asian literature this way, though. Too much gets lost in translation...) 

Well, there is certainly a whole lot more you can (and should!) learn about our lovely new town. However, I think that's enough of an introduction for one day. I do so hope you'll come and visit and check it out for yourself. It's sure to be a learning experience, and one that you will cherish for the rest of your life!